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Photo by Carl Skoog |
Alan Kearney grew up in the Northwest
and began hiking, skiing and climbing
mountains at the age of seven. During
college he gained further skill on big
mountains and walls in Alaska and Yosemite.
In 1981, he and Bobby Knight made the
fourth ascent of the Central Tower Of
Paine, in Chilean Patagonia via a new
route. Three years later, he and Knight
made the first alpine-style ascent of
Fitz Roy's 5,500-foot North Pillar in
Argentine Patagonia. |
Expeditions throughout the 80's and 90's took
him to Pakistan, Nepal, Alaska, Patagonia and
Canada. In 2000, Kearney and Brendan Cusick
climbed the last major buttress on Mount Combatant
in the British Columbia Coast Range. The lightweight
ascent required five days, four bivouacs and
29 pitches of climbing.
Alan continues to climb, ski, run trails and
backpack in his nearby North Cascades and photograph
threatened wild areas in North America. He
often donates images of these pristine lands
to non-profit environmental organizations.
First ascent west face Prusik Peak, Cascades,
Washington, Grade IV 5.9 A-3, May 1974
First ascent north ridge Asgard Peak, Valhalla
Mts., British Columbia, III 5.7, Aug. 1974
First ascent south face Lone Pine Peak, Sierra
Nevada, California, III 5.8, May 1975
First ascent of nine summits, Leaning Towers,
Selkirks, British Columbia, 5.5 - 5.9, Aug.
1975
First ascent south face Peak 12,960, Sierra
Nevada, California, IV 5.9 A-2, May 1976
First ascent Humble Peak, Alaska Range, Alaska,
April 1977
First ascent north buttress west, Bear Mountain,
Cascades, Washington, IV 5.9, Sept. 1977
First ascent southwest ridge Mount Hunter,
Alaska Range, Alaska, April 1978
First ascent Riesenstein, Kichatna Spires,
Alaska, V 5.9 A-2, May 1978
First ascent northwest buttress Citadel, Kichatna
Spires, Alaska, IV 5.9, May 1978
First ascent direct north buttress, Bear Mountain,
Cascades, Washington, V 5.10 A-2, Sept. 1980
First circumnavigation on skis, Mount Foraker,
Alaska, 150 miles, April 1981
First ascent south face Central Tower Of Paine,
Patagonia, Chile, V 5.10 A-2, Jan. 1982
First ascent north face Peak 10,600, Alaska
Range, Alaska, Alpine Ice IV, May 1983
First ascent south face Big Kangaroo, Cascades,
Washington, III 5.10 A-2, Aug. 1984
First ascent east face Big Snagtooth, Cascades,
Washington, III 5.10, Aug. 1984
First alpine-style ascent north pillar Fitz
Roy, Patagonia, Argentina, VI 5.10 A-1, Dec.
1984
First ascent southwest face Mount Shuksan,
Cascades, Washington, III 5.6, Aug. 1986
First ascent direct northwest face, Mount Stuart,
Cascades, Washington, IV 5.10d, July 1987
First ascent north face Saint Exupery, Patagonia,
Argentina, V 5.10, Jan. 1988
First ascent solo northeast rib, Kwangde Sur,
19,500, Nepal, V 5.10 A-2, May 1989
First free ascent west face Prusik Peak, Cascades,
Washington, IV 5.10d, Aug. 1993
First free ascent northwest face Mount Stuart,
Cascades, Washington, IV 5.10, Sept. 1993
First ascent northeast buttress Inspiration
Peak, Cascades, Washington, III 5.10, Aug.
1996
First ascent of "Perseverance", southwest face
Mount Combatant, Coast Range, British Columbia,
VI 5.10c A-2, Aug. 2000
First ascent variation on east face Dragontail
Peak, Cascades, Washington, III 5.10, Sept.
2004
First ascent variation on northeast face Dragontail
Peak, Cascades, Washington, IV 5.10d, Sept.
2004
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